“A platter of oysters Rockefeller is only as swish as the cart that chauffeurs it to the table, and here we’re talking about a burnished-wood beauty topped with a crisp white tablecloth. The Gruyère-and-herbed-bread-crumb-smothered bivalves are but one of the many old-school classics on the menu best paired with a crabmeat-garnished vodka martini.”

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